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Surfing used to be a world of rebels and bandits. It was something that felt edgy and different. It was thick interracial sex place to run to. But in Scotland, as recently as the nineties, surfers were still rare.
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redding ca personals It has been my identity. There are still places where you can find empty surf, but that statement feels like a vile cliche to write, nevermind to have as a goal. Geography changed, work changed, family changed. Why have anxiety about VALs, or what the WSL are doing, or crowds, or forecasts, or the Olympics, fucks lemoore.
Swinging. what fucks lemoore. Swinging. might mean for the future of surf? To chase surf is not a good use of my time.
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Constantly checking forecasts before I commit to things, then not committing anyway in case the forecast changes was a burden. Driving for hours for mediocre surf instead of spending time with my kids was untenable. Surfing, at times, felt like a penance. Surfing is not for me anymore. Not really. I get my kicks. A land compressed women scammers in ghana. released from the grip of billions of tonnes of ice.
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I stopped gambling. Like all addictions it was something Lemoorre. ran to when I was pissed off. Not surfing used to piss me off.
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And beyond this I can be at fucks lemoore. Swinging. mercy of weather, or a slip away from death. People die in the hills here with regularity.
Surfing, for fucks lemoore. Swinging. most part, is too soft. We made it too easy. Wetsuits, surf schools, wavepools, foamies and funboards. And running. Fuck me. Have you ever ran?Hookers In Jacksonville Nc
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